James Franco for Gucci’s Made to Measure campaign
Spring Summer 2014 menswear shows have recently wrapped in Florence, Milan, London and Paris, as luxury fashion brands continue to invest in dedicated stores for gentlemen’s clothes and accessories, alongside made to measure and bespoke programs for well-heeled clients.
According to a recent report by consulting firm Mintel, global luxury men’s wear sales in 2016 will reach $18,036 billion dollars compared with $15,971 billion dollars in 2012. An increase of nearly 13% in just four years.
As reported by Luxury Society last April, Menswear already represented 40% of global sales in 2012. Further, men’s spending on luxury also grew almost twice as fast as women’s in 2011, 14% compared with 8% respectively (Bain). In China men accounted for over two-thirds (70%) of all luxury sales in 2012.
“ Men’s spending on luxury also grew almost twice as fast as women’s in 2011 ”
China’s dominant male spending is thought to be, in part, due to the popular gift-giving culture amongst businessmen and government officials, something that could be under threat given recent political shifts. But if recent activity in men’s luxury fashion is anything to go by, brands remain confident as to the promise to the male consumer on a global scale.
Major international luxury fashion houses such as Dior, Ralph Lauren, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana are pursuing development of men’s only stores both in mature and emerging markets reports Pambianco News.
Prada will open its newest men’s only store in Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele, Milan, following Gucci’s dedicated store in the city’s Brera district, whilst Dolce & Gabbana’s menswear has debuted on New Bond Street, London. Berluti is the latest brand to join Miami’s design district, Haider Ackerman showed menswear for the first time last week in Paris.
Louis Vuitton recently unveiled a temporary men’s only boutique in Florence, Alexander McQueen last year debuted on Savile Row. Ralph Lauren has opened its sprawling flagship in Hong Kong, whilst Hermès and Dior have chosen New York for their menswear locations.
Alexander McQueen’s Savile Row menswear store
But the focus doesn’t stop with retailing. Just as haute couture is experiencing a resurgence in the womenswear sector, made to measure is gaining traction for men. Bespoke suiting formed a large part of Tom Ford’s strategic return to retail in New York City in 2007, heralding a return to the old-world luxury of days gone by.
We all know that made to measure suiting is nothing new. It is perhaps one of the most original and authentic representations of true luxury. And many independent tailors and smaller luxury brands have quietly continued to provide this type of service for centuries.
But what is perhaps a newer trend, are the behemoth luxury fashion brands investing in bespoke for men, from billboard marketing campaigns to elaborate retail environments.
Made-to-measure may be an attempt to claw back some positioning credentials in the world of mass luxury, but nonetheless, brands are wise to recognise that these kind of programs may be necessary to retain the attention of the truly affluent. Below we take a look at some recent examples of made to measure programs and dedicated men’s retail concepts by big luxury brands.
“ As haute couture is experiencing a resurgence in womenswear, made to measure is gaining traction for men ”
Exclusive to the London menswear flagship, located on Savile Row, is a selection of signature jacket styles that can be cut to exact specifications by the house’s head tailor, for delivery in ten weeks. Clients can be measured for one-off creations – anything from a simple waistcoat to a six-button, double-breasted Prince Of Wales jacket – with prices starting from £3,600.
The label has also added a made-to-measure service for delivery in six weeks, where customers can customise three jacket styles to be produced in Italy. The jackets – in classic peak, notch and DB iterations with an accompanying waistcoat – can be cut from one of 26 seasonally changing fabrics and finished with one of four lining colours.
Read More: GQ
Details from Dior Homme’s made to measure collection
Dior Homme has unveiled its demi-measure service at the 57th Street flagship in New York, the first time the made-to-measure service has been offered in the US. Clients are invited to try on basic models from the suit and shirt silhouettes, as an on-site tailor takes measurements that are sent to a tailor in Paris, where the garment is constructed.
Buyers choose from 15 silhouettes for suits and tuxedos, six for jackets, four for trousers, two for vests, and 14 for shirts, and select from over 200 suit fabrics and 160 shirt fabrics selected by creative director Kris Van Assche. The suit and shirt will arrive in store within five to eight weeks for a second fitting; the final garment will be delivered one week later.
Read More: Robb Report
“ An on-site tailor takes measurements that are sent to a tailor in Paris, where the garment is constructed ”
Gucci offers male clients a choice of 82 textiles – wool, cashmere and mohair in classic shades of grey, navy blue and brown, alongside silk satin, velvet and baby lama for evening – allowing for 178 possible combinations of colours and fabrics. Clients can then choose to personalise various details, such as the satin lining with the Gucci logo or the label that may feature embroidery with the client’s name or initials.
The Italian brand also offers a made to order service for signature men’s shoes – allowing for selection of the material, colour, width, as well as embossing of one’s initials. Gucci has recently released a fragrance to compliment the program, designed to invoke the experience of a wearing a custom Gucci suit.
Read More: Gucci
Ralph Lauren’s first men’s only flagship store in Asia
Ralph Lauren has debuted its first dedicated men’s boutique in n Central, Hong Kong, occupying three floors over 930sqm. Inside the store are worlds upon worlds for the Ralph Lauren man, notably the Purple Label Room featuring the brands finest in ready-to-wear and made to measure. Clients can have suits, shirts and shoes custom made from huge selection of fabrics, leather and exotic skins.
The flagship also features a bar, situated next to the Tailor Room (for small alterations) and the larger made to measure VIP fitting room realised in polished nickel and glass. Clients can also be measured and fitted in their home or office, early morning or late into the evening. The boutique also will arrange private transport for key clients and their purchases.
Read More: Forbes
“ Measurements are then sent to Ferragamo’s headquarters in Florence, where a team of trained artisans produce the garments ”
Offered exclusively in New York, at Salvatore Ferragamo’s two-story Fifth Avenue store, the brand has welcomed its Su Misura program. Clients can consult with an in-house team of fit specialists on a range of custom suits, jackets, pants, and shirting, from collar styles to cuff options to the choice of button materials (including horn and mother of pearl) and embroidered monogramming on jackets.
Tailors can travel to the home or office if the client desires, to begin the one-on-one measurement session and selection of a vast array of fabrics, styles, and other customization options. Measurements and choices are then sent to Ferragamo’s headquarters in Florence, where a team of trained artisans get to work on creating the personalised order.
Read More: Esquire
Tod’s Sartorial Touch men’s concept, including an American bar and lounge
Tod’s has launched a space in its newest Milan flagship called ‘Sartorial Touch’. The concept covers the entire fourth floor, dedicated to men’s Made to Order products, including shoes, bags, luggage and small leather accessories. ’Sartorial Touch’ has been conceived as an exclusive English Men’s club, accessible only to select consumers.
There is an American Bar and lounge, as well as private tailoring desks, where Tod’s customers will be able to order from a selection of leathers and signature designs, making it an entirely Made to Order product. Diego Della Valle, the owner of Tod’s Group revealed his intentions to revive the traditional gentlemen’s club where clients can interact around the bar, bringing conviviality to the bespoke experience.
Read More: CPP Luxury
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